I spent six amazing days in Lisbon over New Year! The city is beautiful. It is helped by the hilly topography which lends itself to some fantastic views. The people and the food are both really nice too!
First off we thought it a good idea to walk around and get our bearings. This way we could also survey some of the more common tourist hang-outs within the city centre – there are quite a few! The most stunning of which would have to be Castelo de São Jorge. It is a hilltop castle regarded as the site of Lisbon’s founding settlement. There have been archaeological finds dating back to 6th century BC but the remains today are from the Moorish era. It is not a complete tourist icon – it has gardens and a neighbourhood living within the castle walls which add to its appeal. Along with this is the commune of cats and, strangely enough, peacocks which live within the castle walls! The views from the walls give a really good impression of Lisbon and the size of the city. You also get a first glimpse of the Tejo River and the bridge that looks suspiciously like the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, the Ponte 25 de Abril. You also get a glimpse of another monument which belongs somewhere else in the world, the Santuário do Cristo Rei.
You can actually go over the Tejo River to visit the Cristo Rei in Almada. The boat runs from Lisbon to Cacilhas and offers fantastic views of the Ponte 25 de Abril and Lisbon city itself.
There is a dedicated bus which runs up a very steep and long hill to the Santuário do Cristo Rei. It is worth the trip if only for view of looking down onto the massive bridge and the fantastic views of Lisbon city, especially on the ferry ride back. The restaurants are very popular with the locals around Cacilhas but we were not quick enough to avoid the queues!
That night we were fortunate enough to see the Ukrainian National Ballet perform Swan Lake at the Coliseu. Quite an enjoyable experience, especially for my first taste of ballet, but it was ruined by many people taking flash photographs throughout the performance. Nearby, in the Praça Dom Pedro IV, is a small alcove with a queue outside. It is unmistakable as there are always people around it drinking out of small, white plastic shot glasses. They are drinking a Ginjinha which is a Portuguese cherry liqueur. It has lived on for 150 years and is served with sour cherries. It is interesting but not something you would go back for again and again. However the handiness of an open bar is nice! That night we also ate at a restaurant called Bonjardim Rei dos Frangos – an obvious tourist trap with menus in five different languages, however the food was great and good value. They also specialise in Frango à Piri-piri which is essentially Nando’s chicken but so much better. The piece-de-resistance on the other hand was Picanha, a seasoned thinly cut rump steak with black-bean stew. It is mouth watering just writing about it and is one of the culinary highlights of Lisbon.
The next day we took a trip to the suburb of Belém – a magnificent place and many tourists flock here to see some amazing architecture and taste some incredible sweets. It is a great day out. The different parts of Belém, or the museum as it could be called, represent different parts of history seen through architecture. The start, one could say, is the Torre de Belém. This is an iconic, boot shaped fortress which juts out into the Tejo River built between 1514 and 1520 by Francisco de Arruda. It is considered the jewel in the Manueline architectural style and combines Moorish, Renaissance and Gothic elements into a relatively small defensive tower. It is now virtually on land due to the locals reclaiming it but when it was built, it was an island only 200 m from the northern riverbank and so set in a commanding position within the River Tejo. It is probably at its most attractive during late afternoon.
The other “must-see” of Belém is the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. It is one of the most beautiful and ornate monuments I have ever visited. Few of Lisbon’s monuments are so flamboyant. It was built in the beginning of the 16th century by Diogo Boitac and is a celebration of Portugal’s territorial expansion. It also houses tombs of people who helped make Portugal the great country it is, including Prince Henry the Navigator, Dom Sebastião and Luis de Camões who were laid to rest in the 19th century. The longer wing was built in the 19th century and now houses the Museu Nacional de Arqueológia. The inner court is also very beautiful and, whilst you have to pay, we thought it was well worth it.
Padrão dos Descobrimentos is a remainder of the monolithic and stands on the marina near Belém. It again juts out into the Tejo and was originally supposed to be a temporary monument erected for the 1940 exhibition. It is a pointed structure headed by Prince Henry the Navigator and is a celebration of Portugal’s expansion into the world. It is again well worth a visit in late afternoon after the Torre de Belém.
Other places to visit are the intriguing Centro Cultural de Belém which was erected in 992 and houses a wealth of interesting pieces. It also has a great cafe with a view of the Tejo. The final must see and taste is the Confeitaria de Belém. It has been serving Pastéis de Belém, a creamy custard tart, since 1837 and they are astonishingly good – an absolute must!
Another fantastic day out is Sintra. It is a bit further out of Lisbon but is very much worth the trip. If you are keen, like we were, you could squeeze in a trip to the Palàcio de Queluz which is one the same train line. It is like a miniature Versailles – an superb Rococo palace with formal gardens built by Dom João V as a summer palace in 1747-52. It was short-lived as a royal palace as the royal family fled to Brazil following Napoleon’s invasion in 1807. The royal family took with them much of the furniture and so, slightly unfortunately, the palace now contains mostly Napoleonic pieces reflecting the tastes of the late 18th century aristocracy. However, the interior is grand and the gardens are magnificent and are a very interesting little diversion.
Sintra itself is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as of 1995, and was the summer retreat for Portuguese kings from the 13th to the late 19th century. It seems to have built a different palace for each century – there are many of them and all are stunning! It is a hill station and as such is cooler than the city, very green and beautiful. It is surrounded by some incredible buildings and monuments which really have to be seen to be believed. You have two bus choices to go around Sintra. They go to different place and therefore we used both of them. The less touristy one is the small minibus. It takes you to further afield locations which, when we were there, were virtually deserted! Plus they were magical. Our first stop was Monserrate, the furthest away palace. It has absolutely stunning gardens with many exotic species on show and a Moorish-style palace to boot. This palace was cared for by English residents until recently and so the style shows their influence. It is not much talked about in guide books but it is well worth a visit!
If you take the minibus then you can get it back to the next stop which for us was Quinta da Regaleira. This is an incredibly extravagant palace built around 1900 for António Augusto Carvalho Monteiro, an eccentric millionaire which comes out in the grounds of his palace. It is a neo-Manueline fantasy with mystic links to Freemasonry. The grounds are like every child’s dream – full of tunnels, secret passageways, grottos and tall, thin towers one can climb to look out for invaders! It is a magic kingdom come to life with the most impressive part being a deep well with a helical staircase running down to cross-cutting tunnels through the limestone rock. I could have spent days just exploring the vast mystical gardens.
There are three other palaces to visit in this relatively tiny town, but we only had time to visit one last monument and it had to be Castelo de Mouros. It is by far the oldest remnant in Sintra being an 8th century castle. It is easily viewed from afar as it is above the town on the highest hilltop. It was captured from the Moors by Alfonso Henriques in 1147. It was known to the Romans as the Mountains of the Moon. It was also partially re-built by Dom Fernando II in the 19th century but the majority of it seems set when it was built. It is bare but incredible. The views of Lisbon (if you are lucky and the pollution is not hanging around) must be incredible. You can easily trace the shoreline around the Lisbon area and it is easy to see why this was such a well used fort.
That night, back in Lisbon, we visited a Fado restaurant. This is a distinct tuneful melancholic music genre originating in Lisbon. Fado means “fate” in Portuguese and it is true to say that you do not know the heart of Lisbon until you have heard this music. It is considered the expression of the national trait of fatalism. However, it can also be up-beat and in the restaurant we went to we certainly heard both. Singers will wander in off the street to join the one viola player (an acoustic classical guitar) and one guitarra player (Portuguese 12-string guitar). Fado is going through a renaissance at the moment with more modern singers such as Mariza and others taking the music on a new wave. It is a treat to experience with your dinner and in the restaurant we went to, A Baiuca, it was like being in the music itself. This restaurant is very small so you have to book ahead but the experience and the intimacy of the venue is un-paralleled.
There are many museums in this city to go to – too many to go to. It would take a two week holiday just to do all the museums. However, the one you should consider going to is Museu Nacional se Arte Antiga which is Portugal’s national gallery. It features some fantastic works of art by the lesser known artists including St Jerome by Dürer and The Temptations of St Anthony by Bosch, both of which are possibly worth the trip to this museum alone. One last thing to do in Lisbon is to wander. You will see so many amazing sights and hear so many weird and wonderful sounds!

One last restaurant recommendation is Restô do Chapitô. It is set up in the hills below Castelo de São Jorge and is a spectacular restaurant. It was not in the guide books we had but the food was delicious. It was not the food which was the best bit but the view. The view is one of the nicest of Lisbon city I have seen. It was wonderful and I could have sat there eating and drinking in the view all night!
Lisbon is such a wonderful and beautiful city I could use all the superlatives in the dictionary to describe it. However I will not say anything more apart from…..go!